Although not a professional food critic, I suppose I have sufficient experience to comment on the quality of any restaurant, and, for that reason, I always find the result of this tire-man manual inexplicable.
Well, the ranking of French and Italian restaurants are, by and large, expected and sensible (except the very fact that Gaddi’s of Peninsula is not on the list, and my recent experience with Tosca at Ritz Carlton was not entirely satisfactory). The list of star-grade Japanese restaurant is, to say the least, skewed and incomplete.
But, when it comes to Chinese ones, the list is nothing more or less than absurd. Strictly speaking, most of them do not serve traditional Chinese cuisine – but a modified one presented in a western manner. If we focus on the quality of food, how could Fook Lam Moon (福臨門) rank lower than any of her competitor?
PS. I must say I should not be too harsh to Michelin. The guide is not only written by a group of (predominantly) western gourmets, it is intended to be read by white people who come to this, to them, unfamiliar part of the world. The number of star of a restaurant does not reflect its absolute quality, but how well it suits the palate of Europeans and Americans.
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